Morgan

Oh Christmas Tree

Not for amateurs, this business of picking the perfect Christmas tree. A real tree just makes Christmas—pine in the air, sap on the furniture, needles in the carpet, the whole bit. You can’t fake that. No petroleum-based, mold-formed, insert-figure-A-into-stalk-B imitation can take the place of a real tree. That pine-scented spray you’ve got isn’t fooling anybody. Your house smells like a cab.

Let’s begin with the size of the tree. Don’t give me some sad shrub, some Charlie Brown Christmas weed, barely able to hold up the 4-round dough ornament Aunt Helen baked and shellacked in 1978. No, give me a towering Fraser fir or Scotch pine. “I want big, son, big,” I tell the cadet. Every year I buy a tree that far exceeds the house. What caused that gougé down the center of the living room ceiling? The 15-footer of 1998. Those scratches on the side of the front door? That was one fat Fraser.

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Putting on the Squeeze

Sure, there are some rules. (As a former youth counselor advised, keeping the Holy Spirit between hugging and dancing young folk is probably a good idea although there seems to be some debate over the Spirit’s waistline.) Yet when it comes time to greet an old friend, to welcome a soldier or sailor home, to squeeze out sadness, to convey sheer joy, to comfort a hurt child or simply to say, “I love you,” nothing beats the humble Southern hug.

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Virginia’s Best Ice Cream

For 65 years, this tiny operation has been producing some of the highest quality milk in Virginia. Three generations of Bergeys continue an enterprise almost unheard of in the dairy industry: They actually milk their cows, process their own milk, and deliver it straight to the customer. That’s why a single scoop of their ice cream on a sugar cone tastes so good.

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Space Invader

Sometimes, strolling over kudzu-covered hill and dale,I’m comforted by the thought that when the
Souths’ last barbecue smolders and dies, when the last pickup truck sputters to a stop, when the last column falls off the last plantation house, when diners in Yazoo, Mississippi, and Eufaula, Alabama, succumb to mocha-decaf-cappuccino-skim lattes, kudzu will still be there, creeping at a rate of 12 inches per day, tucking every vestige of our glorious region under a thick green quilt.

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